Matthews Mountains — Kenya’s Hidden Eden

Dubbed a “biological bonanza” by the BBC, the heavily forested Matthews Mountains of north-central Kenya offer a completely different safari experience than what most people have in their mind.

Rising to a height of 7,200 feet above the arid plains that surround it, the Mathews Range is a “sky island” that harbors a wide range of plant and animal life. Among its many denizens are the melanistic leopard (a.k.a. black panther) as well as forest elephants, buffaloes, lions, giant forest hogs, endangered African wild dogs, the rare De Brazza monkey, colobus monkeys, and a range of antelope including the greater kudu and waterbuck.

More than 200 bird species have been counted in these highlands, together with more than 150 kinds of butterfly — more than twice the number of butterfly species found in the entire United Kingdom. The Matthews are covered in 116 square miles of dense indigenous forest that features giant cedars and a rare species of ancient cycad, one of the oldest plant types on the planet and one that’s endemic to the area.

But perhaps the real attraction of this remote area is its striking beauty and the opportunity to explore the forest on foot while staying with Cheli + Peacock at Kitich Camp or Sarara.

Kitich is a wonderfully remote, private camp located in a forest glade on the upper slopes of the Mathews. Overlooking the Ngeng River — and with only six tents set beneath the dense tree canopy — this camp is a low-key classic, offering old-fashioned safari comforts as well as the opportunity to explore forest trails and crystal clear mountain streams with local Samburu guides.

Sarara is a community owned and run lodge set within the 850,000-acre Namunyak Wildlife Conservancy. The six spacious safari tents feature private terrace, flush toilets and open-air showers with 24-hour hot and cold running water.

The tents — as well as the camp’s natural rock swimming pool — are positioned to maximize stunning views of the Mathews Mountains and a nearby waterhole frequently visited by wildlife, especially elephants.

Sarara has a long conservation history in this part of Kenya and nowadays the number of elephant, buffalo, giraffe, gerenuk, impala and warthog is constantly increasing. Sarara is also considered one of Africa’s best leopard viewing areas.