Cruising with Caimans (and Other Critters) in Karanambu

The one wildlife species you’re bound to encounter several times during your trip into the heart of Guyana is the black caiman, a crocodile-like reptile that inhabits South America’s tropical wilderness.

Sprawled on the banks of rivers with their mouths agape, or swimming with their eyes gleaming in the night, the caimans are fascinating to watch. One of the best places for a close encounter with them is the historic eco-lodge Karanambu, at the edge of Rupununi savannah.

Giant otters tend to take center stage at Karanambu thanks to the late conservationist Diane McTurk, who spent much of her life saving and rehabilitating orphaned otters. However, a project that started with a focus on otters soon brought other creatures into the fold.

The lodge lies along the Rupununi River and daytrips along the river with expert boatmen and guides is one of the main attractions at Karanambu. Launched from a small muddy bank, boats glide down a river flanked by a dense forest.

Along the banks, labbas (lowland paca) and other small animals scuttle away, while birds like the Pale-tipped Inezia Bearded Tachuri, Pale-legged Hornero, Yellowish Pipit, Bicolored Wren, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater and Grassland Yellow Finch sweep in and out of view through the dense foliage.

If you’re lucky, you may spot an otter family swimming ahead, but they are sure to scoot out of way and hide in the bush until you’ve passed.

The most relaxed occupants of the river are the caimans, hardly frazzled by the extra company. At best, they swim away or continue sleeping moth wide open, and enjoying the sun while it lasts.

Sometimes a narrow channel leads to a large lake and monkeys swinging through trees along the shoreline. It’s the perfect spot to quaff a passion fruit punch and enjoy the sound of a jungle dominated by howler and capuchin monkeys.

The journey back is timed with the sunset and twilight. Caiman eyes sparkle in the shallow water along the banks. It’s a surreal scene — scores of glinting red reptilian eyes that shine even brighter when a flashlight scans the river.